Friday, August 24, we woke to heavy rain in our camp outside of Ville de Québec. Dallying for a few hours, hoping the weather would clear, Bill finally moved us over to the dump station for that necessary weekly chore, then set out at 11:30 a.m., for the first time on the trip in a westerly direction, toward Montréal. After driving in a gusting rain for an hour, it finally did clear so most of the 160 miles on autoroute 40 along the St. Lawrence River was smooth sailing. Approaching the bridge over the St. Lawrence River to the Island of Montréal, traffic tightened up. Slowly crossing town on the elevated road, Millie (our GPS Navigator) guided us to our next “camp,” the Missionaries of Africa (White Fathers) Provincial house at 4:30 p.m. An old friend, Fr. Pierre LeClerc, who was on the plane with us when we all arrived in Malawi for the first time in 1959, greeted us and arranged food for all of us. After dinner we had a good time remembering our early days in Malawi (called Nyasaland, at that time).
Which reminds me of a story: as Fr. LeClerc, Jean, and I disembarked from the plane at Nyasaland’s only airport with a paved runway in August of 1959, Jean and I were greeted out on the “tarmac” by the Bishop and an American priest from our Diocese up in Northern Malawi, while poor Father LeClerc ended up staying his first night at the local flea trap hotel waiting for the people from his Diocese to come for him. Jean and I were whisked away to stay in a comfortable guest room at a local Catholic high school. But we did have a learning experience about African termites that first night: the room was very clean with painted walls and polished cement floor, but the brothers had not thought about a clothes closet, so we casually tossed our 24-hour-on-the-plane clothes onto the shiny smooth floor. Well, some of Jean’s under clothes were made of rayon, which is a form of cellulose as found in wood—wood eating termites somehow got through a crack in the floor and ate large holes in her underwear! Then there was the time I came out of the door to find a cobra raised up, striking, and spitting at our big black mama cat…
Words are insufficient to relate the warm welcome we received from the religious we had worked among in Malawi. During our 4 day visit, we met 3 priests and at least 15 sisters we had not seen for 30 years. It was old home week! Hugs and kisses (on both cheeks!). Stories related about remembered events and people! Photos brought out to refresh memories and to bring us up to date!
We had not remembered that Montréal and Laval were side-by-side islands in the St. Lawrence River. From the roof top of the M.I.C. (Missionary Sisters of the Immaculate Conception) Sisters house of retirement in Laval, we had an excellent view of the St. Lawrence River and a bridge from Laval to Montréal.
Our hosts gave us complete tours of their communities and stuffed us with all kinds of good things, as Sisters are wont to do. Then over a two-day period from 9 in the morning ‘til 8 at night, we toured the the city of Montréal and its port and visited the three major churches we were hoping to see.
The base of the Cathedral of Mary, Queen of the World, erected in 1870 - 1894, contrasts with a modern skyscraper in blue glass. The Archbishop’s Cathedral is immense, although it is an exact one-third scale replica of St. Peter’s in Rome.
Downtown Montréal features many skyscrapers linked underground by a maze of walkways stretching some 18 miles and embracing 1,600 shops, a department store, 200 restaurants and 30 theaters. Subterranean promenades and the Métro connect the clusters of buildings of underground Montréal.
Montréal’s position between the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes serving large areas of Canada make its port a very busy one. There are also many pleasure craft along the waterway.
We particularly wished to visit St. Josephs Oratory, a massive concrete basilica which began as a simple wooden chapel on the steep hillside of Mont-Royal. Br. André Bessette, a Holy Cross Brother served as gate keeper there until his death in 1937. Br. André cured thousands of pilgrims for which he credited St. Joseph. Abandoned canes and crutches decorate enormous entrance panels.
N.B. We have been involved for the past 6 years in writing the history our parish church, St. Joseph of Mountain View. Part of our Parish’s history involves the Holy Cross Brothers who established and operate St. Francis High School in our Parish.
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Montréal was started in 1830 to replace the original parish church of 1672 in what is now the historic district near the waterfront. On completion 50 years later, it was the largest church in North America. The rather unpretentious exterior betrays the magnificence of the interior.
The lighting plan of the hugh church is masterfully executed. I tried to capture it in these two dimensional images, but they only suggest what it is really like. You have to be there to feel the vast nave receding into the darkness beyond, surrounding you with the coolness of outer space, the vault of the ceiling in deep blue with golden stars, and the crimson pillars outlined in gold caught by your peripheral vision.
As you approach the sanctuary you are overwhelmed by the blazing golds of the crucifix, bright shining blues in the background, warm reds and oranges delineated by rich purples, and fresh green emphasizing the spires over the crucifix. Interestingly, the stained glass windows depict the religious history of Montréal rather than the usual biblical scenes.
Having fulfilled all our hopes for renewing our acquaintance with the M.I.C. Sisters and the White Fathers and of visiting three of the major churches of Montréal, we left Québec Province and headed southwest—in the direction of home.