In 1604, Samuel de Champlain sighted Mount Desert (day SAIR) Island, and named it, “L’Isle des Monts Deserts,” which means island of the bare mountains.
Finally, we had reached colder climes! It took a long time to get there; the cool made us into “happy campers.” Highway 95 north to Bangor was a dream, well paved, multi-laned and scenic, with wide grassy edges and median in deciduous woodland. The next 66 miles SW to camp on Mt. Desert Island was another story: narrow, rough road, mostly 2 lane and bumper to bumper traffic to get to the Visitors Center near the town of Bar Harbor.
Of all things, the center had 37, or was it 57 steps, up to the building. It was a Friday afternoon and we were afraid we would not find a place in a campground. Bill had phoned several days earlier and been told he could only reserve for the next week, but just go ahead and register on arrival. We were now informed than Blackwoods Camp was full, but that Seawall C.G., 18 miles away and the only other campground in the Park, still had a few open sites. If only we had known, we should have aimed directly for Seawall Camp Ground and avoided about 10 miles of congestion. We dashed down the stairs and hurried on. Fortunately we now had a park map, and with Nellie, navigated several road junctions that were not very well marked.
What a beautiful place! We were in a spruce forest that looked, smelled, and felt like Yosemite Valley campgrounds. Selecting our site, we promptly signed up for a 4-day stay. What a bargain! With Golden Age Passport, only $5.00 a night. The next two days were rainy, so we stayed quietly at home, enjoying the cool ambience, with Jean getting acquainted with the campground flora and walking 15 minutes to the shore at Seawall.
The beautiful Swamp Rose, Rosa virginiana, with 2 to 3 inch diameter shocking pink flowers and large scarlet hips, grew in 5 to 8 foot masses wherever there was water.
Bill enjoyed few wild raspberries on his breakfast cereal; Rubus idaeus was found in wet ditches around the camp.
There are carriage roads all over the Island, wide gravel tracks closed to vehicle traffic, except bicycles. You can bike, hike, or stroll for miles.
Yellow Birch, Betula alleghaniensis brightened our campground and meadow clearings. The papery bark has a golden tan cast, not as white as the paper birch, or quaking aspen which are also present in Acadia.
The roadsides and mossy forest floor everywhere were dotted with berries of the scarlet Bunchberry, Cornus canadensis, a miniature dogwood found across the north of the United States and throughout Canada.
The third day Bill drove the RV a total of 72 miles to explore the Island. We first went up Cadillac Mountain, 1,530 feet elevation and the highest mountain on the East Coast north of Brazil.
You are presented with a panorama of the deep blue sea, the surrounding islands, lakes, and forests, and to the west even higher mountains. This summit is the first place the the sun touches the United States every morning.
Returning to the start of the one-way Park Loop Road, we stopped at the native plant garden, Sieur de Monts Spring, then leisurely drove along the scenic rocky Atlantic coast around the island. The Park occupies about 40% of the Island.
Sieur de Monts plantings were arranged in habitat areas, with nearly every type of plant, tree and fern labeled. In early summer mode, the garden was all in shades of green. Blueberries and Cranberries were forming; fall colors of aster and goldenrod just beginning. One bright spot was the Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis growing beside the little stream.
Another great feature about Acadia N.P. is the Island Explorer shuttle buses, partly supported by L.L. Bean Sporting Goods Co. and partly by the National Park Service. Free rides! On the hour! Hub at Bar Harbor Village Green. Reaching all the little towns, harbors, trail heads and many of the scenic points!
On our last day, Sunday, we hopped on the shuttle at the campground entrance and went into Bar Harbor for church, to view the harbor, and to mingle with the tourists. We were reminded that 40 years ago, while we were teaching in Africa, we traveled by bus around the U.S. and visited Acadia National park. The Pastor of the Catholic Church in Bar Harbor loaned us his car to drive around the island, and then that evening drove us the 66 miles to Bangor to catch the Greyhound bus going to Quebec
Bar Harbor had long been a watering place for the wealthy, some of whom had the foresight to form a group of Trustees to help preserve some of the beautiful spots on the Island. They acquired about 5,000 acres which they presented to the Federal Government. President Woodrow Wilson signed Sieur de Monts National Monument into existence in 1916. After more land donations, in 1919 an act of Congress redesignated it as Acadia National Park, the first national park to be established east of the Mississippi River.