Friday, December 5, 2008

10/10/08 Frankfurt am Main, Financial Capital of Europe

After exchanging farewells with our fellow Medjugorje pilgrims, we landed in Frankfurt’s giant airport.

Frankfurt is the transportation hub of Germany for flights, roads, & trains. That plus the fact that historically it has financed Kings and Emperors since medieval times has made it the seat of the German Federal Bank and home of the Euro (€)—The Central European Bank. It is still the wealthiest city in Europe, per capita. The third pillar of Frankfurt’s economy depends on the many large trade fairs held in Frankfurt each year, which were authorized by Kings as early as 1150.

At first I had thought to renew our acquaintance with one of our favorite European cities, Amsterdam. But after trying to work out economical air flights or train routes or even inter-country buses, I gave up—the planes and trains were far too expensive and the buses were impossible to organize in English, you had to do it from Europe in the language of the country.

So going with the flow, we stayed three nights in Frankfurt, a city we had been to several times before, but never gotten out of the airport. It turned out to be an interesting, picturesque city with reasonable priced hotels—our hotel, 3 minutes walk from main train station cost us $247 (including taxes—a big item in Europe) for 3 nights for two, a large double room with bath, and a good, substantial breakfast—(Expedia online). One caveat—the city, being an important hub—was flattened by Allied bombs during World War II and so the “medieval” buildings except for a few exceptions have been rebuilt since WWII.

What we found was a good “layover” place, between the peaceful, yet focused time at Medjugorje and the bright lights and somewhat frantic activities we would experience in London and Paris.



Looking out of a bus on one of the two days of partial sunshine, we saw a small part of the Frankfurt airport. The train from the airport into the main train station cost less than $3 each.


From the window of our well-lighted, spacious hotel room at the Ambassador Hotel, we could see we were not in California. But there was a convenient launderette across the street and German (not MacDonalds) fast food places along the street.


A Frankfurt Street

The weather in Europe this summer was said to be unusually rainy; in spite of the gray skies, we found color in our exploration of Frankfurt.


A German KFC.

The chicken is roasted in slices on a spit in the shape of an inverted cone.


Flea Market!!

Actually nothing was “neu”.


Need a pair of shoes?


“If I don’t have what you want…”


“… I am sure my friend does!”


Frankfurt was built on an early Roman settlement on the Main River. The Kaiserdom (emperor’s cathedral) in the background had a scaffolding around the tower for maintenance purposes. The metro area includes up to 3 million people.


Since it was left practically “without a stone on a stone” by the Allied bombers in WWII, Frankfurt does not have much in the way of old historical buildings, on the other hand its main claim to fame rests in being the financial and transportation center of Germany and the largest financial center in continental Europe. It is the place of residence of the European Central Bank, the German Federal Bank, the Frankfurt Stock Exchange and the Frankfurt Trade Fair, as well as several large commercial banks.


There are contrasts between the rebuilt medieval buildings and the modern skyline. Behind St. Leonards Church, are The European Central Bank, many other bank towers, and the Börse (stock exchange). The tallest commercial tower in Europe is the Commerzbank at 850 feet (56 stories). Paris and Frankfurt have the most skyscrapers (over 500 feet) in Europe.


Römerberg Plaza—a photographer's delight

Of course the Römerberg plaza was restored with tourists in mind—but they did it in a photogenic style with lots of color. The main buildings were originally constructed as wealthy burgers’ houses with several churches nearby—St Nicholas on the plaza, St. Bartholomew (now Kaiserdom)—beginning in the 13 & 14th centuries.


Römer (Town Hall) –
converted from three houses in 1405


Frankfurt was one of the most important cities in the Holy Roman Empire. From 855 the German kings and emperors were elected in Frankfurt and crowned in Aachen. From 1562 the kings/emperors were also crowned in Frankfurt, Maximilian II being the first. The elections and coronations took place in St. Bartholomäus cathedral, known as the Kaiserdom, or in the Römer.


Jean by the door to the Römer, where in nearby buildings 44 Kings and Emperors from 768 AD to 1792 were crowned or elected.


Wertheim Haus, 1600

The only original house remaining in Frankfurt is the Wertheim Haus on the SW corner of the plaza, dating from 1600.


Window detail of the Wertheim Haus


Ostzeile Houses 1400s

The east side of the square, opposite the Römer is known as the Ostzeile. This row of picturesque half-timbered houses are reconstructions of the original 15th and 16th century houses.


Apfelwein is one of Frankfurt’s culinary specialties.


The Kaiserdom

St. Bartholomews Church was raised to a Cathedral standing although it has never been a bishop's seat, when it started being used in Kings/Emperor’s coronations in 1356.


The interior soars to 312 feet in red sandstone.


Interestingly, the Mass we chose to attend at noon on Sunday happened to be in the Croatian language, illustrating the cosmopolitan nature of Frankfurt.


The only remaining altar from the original church is the Altar of Mary Sleeping, created in 1434.


Mary Sleeping (dying) with an anguished St. John, the Evangelist among the other apostles.


The main part of the pipe organ. Built in 1877, it is unusual in that the arrangement is for a geometric pattern rather than by sound values.


The symbol of Frankfurt am Main,
both past and present.



See you in London.