30.52/8 World-class Photographic Location, “a Photographer’s Dream”—Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona

Jean and I drove an extra couple of hundred miles to reach this “photographer’s Heaven” at Page, Arizona on the border of Utah and beside the shores of Lake Powell, the huge lake created by Glen Dam.




Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon meaning it is very narrow and only a trickle of sunlight gets into the depths of the canyon. Slot canyons in “red rock” country present the photographer with a magic palate of reds through violets—unfortunately our eyes don’t see the colors until you take a long exposure, sometimes in the minutes; fortunately with digital cameras, you check your camera’s images as you go. I used ISO 100-200, bracketed exposures of 0,+1, and +2 stops.



The weather is hot as usual here in Arizona as we crowd into the Suburban driven by our bright, experienced Navajo guide for the easy drive to the trail head. Our trusty leader Irene, shoves it into four-wheel drive for the next five miles to the mouth of the canyon.(The sandy, corrugated, bumpy road would not even be a decent trail).



We are a special photographers’ group—that allows experienced guides such as Irene more time to show us all the little corners where amazing photographs lurk.


Once inside, we enjoy a moment of calm while Irene orients us to the situation. First, patience is of the greatest importance because the canyon is so narrow, sometimes barely one person wide and there are many other groups with their tripods extended coming through the short 200 yards where it all happens and then returning the same way they came in.




Second, protect your equipment (and contact lenses) from sand and dust falling from above.



Then the frenzy begins—Irene leads you to a photogenic spot and seven tripods go down and seven heads bend over the monitors. Nobody speaks, but each is intent on creating a superior image. Since the canyon is only wide enough for two or three tripods abreast, one rank stands tall, the next at about 4 feet high, and finally the last on their knees. The light is changing by the minute—so Irene is teaching us how to chase the sunbeams descending from openings above.



Then the frenzy begins—Irene leads you to a photogenic spot and seven tripods go down and seven heads bend over the monitors. Nobody speaks, but each is intent on creating a superior image. Since the canyon is only wide enough for two or three tripods abreast, one rank stands tall, the next at about 4 feet high, and finally the last on their knees. The light is changing by the minute—so Irene is teaching us how to chase the sunbeams descending from openings above.



But then Irene shows us a new twist. (I am carrying two Panasonic 10 megapix Lumixes with Leica lenses and image stabilization—one on a tripod with 24 mm lens, the other handheld 28 mm lens.) When she sees I have a second camera, she says,”grandpa, let me borrow your camera.” Before I can think about it, she grabs it goes down flat on her stomach, shoots a series of pictures, then gets up and proudly shows us all a beautiful scene none of us knew was there.



She liked her results with my camera so much that she ran off pointing it here and there, seemly at random, but locations she knew were worthy photo ops, and proudly showing all us how it’s done. I didn’t know if I would see my camera again! But then it occurred to me, those beauties were my beauties now, on my memory chip. I changed the battery in the camera and handed it back to her saying, “There are still 954 pictures left to take.” (There was a 4 gb memory chip in the camera.) She laughed and went off shooting like crazy.



As you are looking at these images (and clicking on each one to see it at a reasonable size, usually 12” at 72 p/i), it is difficult to understand the orientation. The first 8 photos are taken more or less horizontal, you see people and the sandy canyon path in the pictures.



But starting with number 9, we are looking up almost vertically, searching for “cork screws”, “waves”, “Montezuma’s sunsets”, etc. Surprising patterns and forms emerge, hard to associate with cold sandstone in a little 200 yard long slot canyon in the middle of a hot, dry deseert.










The experience of shooting in Antelope Canyon, though not as extended, certainly is at the same level of photography as recording the Albuquerque International Balloon Festival.




























Without Photoshops “shadow and highlight” adjustment, one would need to be much more clever in shooting and finishing the images to tame the 8 to 10 stops of light intensity in the canyon. I have not increased the saturation or added color to any of these pictures. My procedure was generally to use iPhoto’s levels and exposure adjustment and then shadow and highlight in Photoshop, and finally a mild sharpening (unsharp mask: 70, 2.4, 16). The pixels were reduced to about 800 0r 900 in the longest dimension (12” at 72) so the pictures will download quickly on your computer. 











Have you ever seen a sunset like this one?

27.5/25 Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend only 2 miles from Page, Arizona rivals its more famous brother, Dead Horse Point in Canyonlands, Utah. Actually, except for the 3/4 mile walk from the parking lot, it is more accessible. To my memory, Horseshoe Bend is more symmetrical and certainly every bit as colorful.


Horseshoe Bend
There is one problem with Horseshoe Bend, you are very, very close—right on top of it, thus requiring a minimum of a 24 mm wide-angle lens, a 20 mm would be even better.





















Striated Rock on the lip of the canyon


















Overall of the Horseshoe Bend area


The most striking plant here is the banana yucca, Yucca baccata. Native Americans used all Yucca species leaf fibers to make sandals, rope, baskets and cloth. Eating the raw fruits is like chewing on artichoke leaves - bland flavor and coarse texture. At Tonto Monument visitor’s center were displayed 800 year-old 1/2 inch balls of fiber that were found by the hundreds around the ruins. They were the remains of mouthfuls of raw or roasted fruits which had been chewed, nutrients extracted and the roughage spat out.















The bright Desert dandelion, Malacothrix glabrata, an old acquaintance from Joshua Tree in CA, had newly opened flowers turned toward the sun in the morning.





Although it is only 4,300 ft. elevation here, there must have been some rain for annuals were everywhere: white sand Gilia, Astragalus, Plantago and Cryptantha.








Among the many other prickly plants, Phacelia crenulata was still in bloom

26.5/24 Rough Road to Wupatki National Monument

Nobody told us the ongoing road NF545 would be gravel. However, it was good gravel—wide, recently graded—still enough corrugations to rattle our teeth. As we gradually descended, we kept expecting the tarmac to resume. Not yet! Maybe around this bend? That one? Not yet!
Well shook up after about 25 miles of gravel road, we arrive at the Monument Entrance Sign and the turn off to Wukoki Pueblo, the first of three main “villages” in the Monument. Tar road at last! Partially restored and stabilized, the ruins appeared before us

















Wukoki Pueblo Ruins






















Wupatki Pueblo Ruins

We return to the main (gravel) road for a mile to the visitor’s center and the largest ruin, Wupatki, beautifully restored with two large circular arenas, an unroofed kiva or ceremonial area and a ball court.
The indigenous people had learned to farm this improvised environment. The last fall of ash from Sunset Volcano in the 1100’s enabled them to live here for another 100 years. By 1250 A.D. everyone had gone.



Museum display of 800 year-old squash seeds, corn cobs and bean seeds

Road graders were busily smoothing the next few miles of wetted down gravel road. Then we came to a short length of paved road which led to Box Canyon ruins, a series of three, unrestored, remnant dwelling sites.



Box Canyon Ruins with Snow-capped San Francisco Peaks to the North










A beautiful collared lizard hung around the path

A little farther on the gravel, then we were traveling comfortably north for 120 miles on highway 89, now in the land of pink rock.
Our booked accommodation at Page-Lake Powell RV park, space 38, water and electricity was waiting on our arrival at 3:20 p.m.




Highway 89 going through the Painted Desert on the way to Page, AZ

25.5/23 Sunset Crater National Monument

Since we didn’t want to reach Page before our reservation for Thursday night, we had a day to spare. After climbing the 4 miles to the Mogollon rim view and finding the weather overcast and rainy, we continued north, right through Flagstaff except for a quick stop at an Albertson’s to replenish our groceries. By eleven o’clock, after a total drive of 39 miles we arrived at Bonito campground at the lower end of National Forest road 545 loop at 7100 ft. elevation. The spacious campground was perhaps 1/4 full. Once we picked the best site—level, near a bathroom—the camp hosts zipped quickly to us in golf carts to collect our $8.00 fee (1/2 of standard for holders of Golden Age Passports). We could easily have gone on and east into the Grand Canyon, but an extra 100 miles round trip and with cloudy skies and only one day! It just didn’t seem worth while to revisit.
Although it was cold enough for us to pull on an extra shirt, the sun came out to reveal that we were parked on dark pumice with an intriguing black lava flow in view. Jean went exploring. It just didn’t seem worth while to revisit.
Although it was cold enough for us to pull on an extra shirt, the sun came out to reveal that we were parked on dark pumice with an intriguing black lava flow in view. Jean went exploring.


































Claret Cup Cactus Echinocereus triglochidiatus

By evening many more people had arrived at the campground, some in RV’s and quite a few tenters. It was getting colder and colder. We turned on the heater for the first time this trip. The tenters made campfires but went to bed early















Bonito Lava Flow
Bill wanted morning light to photograph nearby Sunset Crater. We woke at 6 a.m. to find the temperature was 22°, really cold. Ready to go at 6:40, Dream Machine was reluctant to start; a red light went on in the dash. Bill checked the manual and found the warning indicated low water. He opened the hood and had a look, decided it was not serious, and let the engine idle a few minutes before taking off. No more red light, but he later topped up the water.






Sunset Crater







Red Rocket or Scarlet Gilia
Gilia (Ipompsis) aggregata

24.5/22 Cool in the Pines

OAK CREEK CANYON TOWARD SEDONA WITH SUN BATHERS

Rancho Sedona RV Park, well shaded by sycamores and poplars along Oak Creek, had been pleasant, each site with a bit of
green lawn, with fantastic red cliffs barely visible through the leafy canopy. But it was hot, the days reaching over 100°, nights down to 75°. We cope by awakening at 6 a.m. to take advantage of the sweet morning light and cool temps, sometimes having breakfast at a picture site. In general, we take a two hour nap during the hottest part of the day, quite comfortable with the rooftop air conditioner running, either with camp site electricity or with our own gasoline fueled generator (at about $1.00/hour). Toward 4 o’clock we “hit” photo locations requiring afternoon light, then have soup and crackers or a salad for a light dinner. In between we spend most of our time processing photos on our laptops; Bill preparing new blogs and Jean checking out any new plants.

PINE CREEK CAMPGROUND

We didn’t go far the next two days (total about 49 miles), leaving around noon from Sedona, we followed Oak Creek for 12 miles to Pine Flat Forest campground. We found it nearly empty except for the camp host and two other groups. A few more RV’s arrived in the evening and during the night. How good it was to be under Western Yellow Pines in mountain air and away from the city bustle!


Up here, in Oak Creek Canyon, the stream is barely alive, but Jean found the same plant friends as in wet sites in California. Watercress and speedwell mass the edges and duckweed floats in the stagnant pools. Common yellow monkey flower brightens the rocky creek bed.







WATER CRESS AND SPEEDWELL












YELLOW MONEKEY FLOWER













Climbing up and onto the Mogollon Rim into pine forests. Bill photographed down Oak Creek Canyon from the Vista Point. It was raining and cold. Twelve miles later, shivering in the 7,000 feet elevation, Nellie (temporarily substituting for Millie), our GPS navigator, led us to an Albertson Market in Flagstaff.
VIEW FROM VISTA POINT ON MOGOLION RIM

21-23.5/19-21 Sedona from Chapel to Vortex

No matter what red— vermilion, scarlet, blood, rust, cardinal…—you choose, you will find it in Sedona—and pink jeeps as well. No matter which way you point your camera, what your film or white balance setting, the atmospheric condition, haze or polarizing filter, you will get red rocks. Of course, as usual, the best pictures are taken in the early morning or late afternoon. [I will note when these photos were taken.]


We are among 5 million people that go to the center of Arizona’s Red Rock Country each year. Amateur and professional photographers are attracted to beauty of Sedona. Hikers and fisherfolk wander the numerous trails. Artists of all pervasions look for inspiration in the surroundings and various art and music festivals. There are luxurious golf courses, fine dining, and other high class amenities. And there are those seeking metaphysical energy in this area supposedly abounding in vortexes.

For the Paweks it’s pictures and flowers. The pictures were there in all their glory, but the flowers suffered from the dry year—not that Jean was skunked, but she only found several hundred, and many of those without blooms.
In this mini-tour, we’ll describe the main photo spots, but we only touch the surface of the photographic opportunities















Pix 1-morn. Overlooking the town, we see it is surrounded by red and cream colored peaks—with various descriptive names like, Coffeepot Rock, Castle Rock, Snoopy Rock, Bell Rock, etc., etc.

Pix 2-aft. The Chapel of the Holy Cross is a Catholic shrine for the spiritual inspiration of all. Its hugh size contributes to its grandeur. And its integration into the rock emphasizes its power and majesty—a truly awesome sight!.


Pix 3 & 4-morn. Along Dry Creek Road, the rocks vary from a pinkish-red to a rusty-red, but all are impressive. This road leads to several new housing areas with a golf course (membership fee $180,000).


Pix 5 & 6-noon. Tlaquepaque village has numerous stores, restaurants, and galleries. The village is among grand sycamores of Oak Creek with flowers everywhere around pretty plazas set with shady fountains.


Pix 7-morn. This the view place at the end of the paved road on Schnebly Hill Road. Pix 1 was taken from this spot. The scenery on the road beyond this point is gorgeous, but the road is rough, rocky, and corrugated. We tried a little ways, but the Dream Machine complained so much, we quit after a couple of miles. Which brings up…


Pix 8 -morn. Pink Jeeps are found on all the back roads, as well as red jeeps green hummers, and other tour groups. They will take you to all the best off-the-paved road places. Only wanting to spend 4 nights in Sedona, we found plenty to photograph from the paved roads; a longer stay would suggest a Pink Jeep ride. (I would guess the tour companies lobby to keep the city from paving these roads.)



Pix 9-morn. A half-mile walk from where we gave up on Schnebly Hill Road, brought me to this overwhelming sight. I call it the Ship of State.






Pix 10-aft. At a place cryptically called, “Red Rock Crossing/Crescent Moon”, which is where one can ford Oak Creek on red slick rock and is now in Navajo land named Crescent Moon Recreational Area, you have the “classic” view of Cathedral Rock at sunset. Pix 10 is the Dome of Cathedral Rock taken about an hour before sunset.








Pix 11-sunset. This is it!—Cathedral Rock reflected in Oak Creek at sunset—a truly grand vision (Even the birds stop to admire it, near bottom of picture.).















Some notes. 
Vortex: Sedona supposedly has 7 major vortexes, some transmit “electric” energy which energizes and inspires visitors, while others are “magnetic” and emit a calming influence.
Actualy, there are four kinds of energy: gravitational, electro-magnetic, nuclear strong force, and nuclear weak force. You cannot have electric energy without magnetic energy and vice versa. It is doubtful that there are electro-magnetic energy density aberations this far from the magnetic poles; although there may be gravitational anomalies in this area.

If you have a Golden Age Passport, you do not have to buy a Red Rock Pass, $5/day, $15/week, to park, if only to take a picture, on Forest Service land. This fact is not publicized at all. Nor is it noted that stopping by the roadside but not leaving your vehicle requires no Pass even if you don't have a Golden Age Passport.